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What struck me first were the shapes. Simple, geometric, and briskly patterned. For someone with a mind as busy (read: unfocused) as mine, having a geometric palette to look at has an immediately calming effect. This is exactly what Heirloom Naga’s furnishings present: clean, strong lines and shapes plastered over richly woven fabrics. Every piece that the brand manufactures is stunning in its simplistic beauty, and honours the skilled symmetrical work of Nagaland’s traditional handloom weaving. Reminiscent of native north-east Indian folk artistry and a bit of the De Stijl movement of 20th century Netherlands, the textiles, bedcoverings and fabrics.
Established in 1993 with just one weaver as an exploratory initiative, Heirloom Naga gradually pioneered the contemporary language of Naga Textiles. The brand drew attention to the “loin-loom weaving” process unique to India’s northeast, and today has made the unique style a home staple all across the nation—and the world. Founder Jesmina Zeliang launched her first textile collection in the 1990s. By combining traditional motifs with a contemporary context, she was able to revive ancestral skills and define a new approach to pursuing indigenous craft. As Zeliang developed the brand’s core identity, she wanted to honour this unique craft form passed down to generations matrilineally. Her focus on hiring women was pivotal in growing Heirloom Naga’s niche. Today, 450 women weavers, across the Naga tribes of Zeliang, Chakesang, Phom, Konyak, Angami, Sangtam, Chang, Yimkhiung and Sumi, work at Heirloom Naga.
It’s no wonder that the brand’s success is attributed to women. Having originated centuries ago among native tribes of northeast India, loin-loom weaving is, after all, how the women of Nagaland have always made their shawls, sarongs, bags, clothes, and fashion accessories. The mechanics are quite rudimentary. On one end, a bamboo-made back strap loom is worn as a belt around the weaver, and on the other, parallel bamboo sticks hold up a stretched-out continuous warp for the weaver to perform magic. This piece of warped cloth is turned into cushion covers, upholstery, bedding and bedcoverings, and fashionable clothing items. Since every Naga tribe has distinctive colours and motifs, they are ingrained into the cloth, making the fabric an extension of their proud heritage and native identity.
